Wednesday, August 15, 2007

In Search of Chinatown Wednesday 8/15/07




Last night it poured rain and we thought we would have a limited chance to explore today, however the morning was clear and sunny and not very cold so we decided to see if we could find the small Chinatown in the barrio Belgrano. We decided to walk and explore yet another area of the city.


We took off northwest on Sante Fe Avenue and then followed the north leading street of Av. Luis MArie Campos as it meets Liberadore Ave. at a distance. During this walk we discovered more shops with more usual items and included a place to buy bulk provoletta cheese. It sells for about 20 pesos/kilo and I had the man weigh it and it was close to 4.5 kilos or 90 pesos. I didn't want to carry it so I told him I would return in about 5 days to retrieve it.
We then passed places with interesting architecture mixed in with square concrete and brick buildings. There are several magnificant government buildings along the path we chose and one was the military school of war. When we reached the junction of Liberadore Avenue, we found the street called Juramento and turned right for one block, crossing the train tracks. If you now turn left on Arribenos, you are in a several block region of the Buenos Aires China Town. It is not very impressive but does have the requisite chicken feet and gizzards and dried mushrooms and strange medicine shops. None of the restaurants even remotely looked like they serve hot and spicy foods.
I bought Earline some essential oils for 2 pesos each and an electronic sparker to light gas grills. I have not seen one of these in the USA and they are superior to the dollar store butane lighters which break after 10 clicks. Interesting is that the stores sell imported Chinese goods at prices higher than we can buy the same stuff for in the USA.
We walked up Juramento and found the D subte line and took it back home for an afternoon nap. Chinatown is not one of those "must-see" tourist stops in Buenos Aires. :)

Wool Buying and Lunch at Dante's Monday 8/14/07






Dante called and invited Dave and me to a home cooked lunch. Because we walked a long distance yesterday, Dante gave us walking instructions and a time of 1:30 pm to show for a "Dante Cooked Meal." He was going to show us how to cook Chinese. This was a once in a lifetime chance to see the domisticated side of Dante, so we accepted and took off walking about 10 am.




I took the opportunity to buy Earline's wool as we were passing by the shops at Scalibrini Ortiz and Cordoba. I purchased a variety of wools with different colors and textures and ran up a bill of about $50 US for about 3 kilos of wool. Now I had to lug it with me.




We had time to kill so we walked along Ave. Corrientes, the one that runs to the Obilisk, and browsed the shops. We then found the Plaza Almagro which borders Dante's place. It was still too early to show for lunch, so we decided to sample artesinal ice cream at a corner shop. I was disappointed with the last ice cream I tried as it seems to be a mixture of sweet gummy stuff which I suspect is dulce de leche, and our ice cream. This sample came closer to what we Americans consider ice cream but still, it seems more gummy. I am uncertain how they can mess up cream, sugar, flavorings and freezing it, but they do.




We knocked on Dante's door which is located at SArmiento 3815 PB

#c. We were greeted and led through a long corridor to the back of the house. Dante lives in a humble place with two bedrooms, a small kitchen and living room/dining room combo and two enclosed garden areas that give a cozy feel to the place. He has a little dog called Munica (little doll in Spanish) that is just great. We were treated to appetizers and wine while Dante continued to prepare his beef, onion, curried rice dish. It was delicious and we consumed more rice.


Later in the afternoon, Dante, his friend Janet, Dave and I took the bus for the first time back to our place. It was slower than the subte but not at all uncomfprtable. The cost is 80 centivos for the ticket. You put coins in the ticket machine and it will give you change and a ticket. We got off at Plaza Italia and walked home while Dante and Janet went to another store to buy bungee cords to hold the luggage of three women arriving in the morning. He came to our place without the cords and I have yet to discover if he was able to transport the women and their stuff in his small transport car.

Monday, August 13, 2007

MONDAY AUGUST 13, 2007




Today's weather was quite Spring-like. Sunny aand warm. Dave and I decided we will check our the Palermo Zoological Gardens because we are bored and looking for things to do. Fortunately, it was closed on Mondays!




We took off on Sarmiento Avenue towards Liberatore Avenue in search of adventure. Really, we wanted to find the tulip sculpture that opens and follows the sun. We hoofed it around Parque Feb 3 and passed the Japonese Gardens again. Crossing the street towards LIberatore, we came across an upscale shopping center containing what appears to be a super Walmart type store. It was called the Plaza Cheeky. They had the best foods that I have seen to date in BA. Produce was fresh, meat was plentiful and gorgeous, and the wine selection was huge. I tried to take a few pictures but was told to stop. Maybe they were afraid that clients would be photographed?


We then were still looking for the tulip, so we walked toward the dock area and ended up in a section of town that I would not recommend. It was an area where ships are unloaded with their containers and contained a "technical park" that appeared to be rather non-technical. However, we did find a par three executive golf course during our tour. We then back tracked to Liberatore avenue, walked towards downtown looking for the tulip. After about ten miles, we decided to get on the subte and call it a day. It turns out that we missed the damned tulip by a block. It is located on Liberatore Avenue across from the Japonese Gardens. We happened to turn the wrong direction. However, it was still and interesting day.
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Sunday August 12,2007 Tourism Day





Dante called and wanted to take his friend sight-seeing. Because we had nothing better to do, and because my brother has not been to some of the tourist areas, we decided to tag along.

The first area we toured was the Puerto Madero area which I wrote about earlier. We saw a bit more of the area by auto than on foot but basically it is a new and prosperous area of developing high-rise properties and costly restaurants. It is considered the safest area of the city as there are closed circuit TV's on the street corners.


We then progressed to the real tourist trap, called La Bocca (the mouth) and this refers to the mouth of the original harbor area of Buenos Aires. There are colorful houses of corregated steel that were painted with left over paint from ships in the older days. Now on Sunday, there are tango dancers, tango art, trinkets, etc. everywhere. Everyone has their hand out for a small charge to have a picture taken, etc. I was happy to leave the area.


We next went to a more colorful local faire called Mataderos. Here, the locals watch and participate in local dances and listen to traditional music and eat local foods. There are booths selling honey, olive oils, and a variety of artesinal crafts at prices better than in BA. Dante wanted to eat parilla from the street but after my tourista bout, I settle to consume only beer.
We ended the day at about 8pm.

Saturday - Aug 11, 2007 Wool Hunting Day


Today was the day I was supposed to check out buying wool for my wife, Earline. The bulk wool stores are located approximately at the corner of Scalabrini Ortiz and Cordoba and are on Scalabrini Ortiz. Saturday is not the best day to do this as you must take a number and fight a lot of women for a place in line to buy wool.


The stores are typical wool stores except that the prices are in kilogram of wool. A typical price might be 45-60 pesos per

kilogram of wool. To see if this is a good deal, you would have to know how much wool it takes to make a particular item and then compare it to the USA prices. I then wrote to Earline who weighed some recent scarves she made. They weigh 12-20 grams and take about 3 small skeins or one large skein to make. That would come to about $6 US. Thus you could make perhaps 50 scarves from a kilo of wool at a BA cost of $15-$20 US dollars. This is a good deal.

I will now have to return to purchase some bulk wools. They sell cashmier and mohair among other speciality wools.

Thursday, August 9, 2007

BA Social System

During our Spanish lessons, we had the chance to speak in depth with Diego about the social system of Argentina. Although a much poorer country than the USA, they are able to provide free college education for all and free healthcare for all. The physicians must all work free for part of their time in the public hospitals before attending at the University or private practice. Even the president's physician must take his turn providing free care.

The colleges offer the opportunity of a free education to all who wish to go. Of course, they must pass the tests on the subjects but there is no entrance examination except in Medicine. There is a problem with lower education as there is in the United States. The level of education varies depending on if it is given in the capital or in the provinces. Those from the provinces with less money definitely get an inferior education.

Of interest to me was the absence of the people's love for their country. They love their culture and their fellow Argentine's but because of past abuses by the government, they don't trust the government and therefore separate their identities from a government identity. They must carry a government ID card with them at all times and it is mandatory to vote in elections. Their ID booklet is stamped with proof of voting. If you don't vote, you are are risk of forfiting government services.

The Argentine's do not have an anti-imigrant attitude. They do not discriminate against those from Chili, Peru, or Brazil, etc. They do make kind of snide remarks about the other countries such as Paraguay or Uraguay. It seems to be rather good natured such as calling those from Paraguay the word Paraguas, the word for umbrella. They particularly don't like the Spanish, probably because of the past history of Spanish colonialization.

There is a lot of poverty in certain areas of the city but very little violent crime. Guns are almost non-existent and while an occasional person gets shot, it is nothing like in the United States. The children are not treated with drugs for ADD but rather have patient teachers in special schools. The teachers for regular students, have a different relationship with the students than in the USA. Rather than an authoritarian profile, they are more of a colleague in learning for the students, even in college.

Business lunches are often 1.5 hours long and are more social events than in the USA where you gulp down the food in order to return to work. This slower pace seems to create a less aggressive and predatory climate.

There are four major ways to travel around the city of Buenoa Aires. The cheapest and most common method is that of buses called collectivos. They have numbers and you need a booklet with maps to correlate the number of the bus with the place you want to travel. You queue up at the end of the line and must raise your hand when the proper numbered bus comes or it won't stop. More than one numbered bus will service a particular stop (parada). You must have coins to ride the bus as there is no change. You pay your money, get a ticket and when your stop comes, you signal with a button or bar that you want to get off.

The subway (subte) is the next cheapest method of moving people. There are five color-coded lines A,B,C,D,E and they interconnect at the main station called Avenida 9 de Julio. They are really packed at peak hours and you have to plan ahead to squeeze to a door to get off at your stop. It costs 7o centavos to ride one way. It is best to get a 10 ticket pass for 7 pesos and use this.

Trains service more distant barrios or provinces with the city. The main station is in the barrio Retiro but I have yet to try using the train. I don't know their cost and I am certain it varies but should not be too expensive.

Taxis seem to be everywhere and fill in the gaps. The radio taxi is a black and yellow car with alight on the right front side of the driver. When lit, it indicates the cab is vacant. You hale the cab as you do in the USA. Check the price to you destination to be certain he is not taking you on a round about excursion. There is a meter that indicates the fare on time and distance. To travel from the downtown to Palermo was about 12 pesos.

Wednesday, August 8, 2007

The Dreaded "Tourista" - Wednesday 8/8/07

I haven't posted on the blog for a few days because I was sick with the dreaded "tourista" or traveller's diarrhea. It is unclear how I became ill with this as I am usually careful of things that I eat and generally wash my hands before dining. It is possible that it was part of a respiratory illness that I contracted several days after arrival, but no matter the cause, the consequence is rapid and profound. One gets a colon prep for an imaginary colonoscopy for about 24 hours. On Sunday, I had shaking chills, abdominal cramps and right lower quadrant pain making me wonder if I was getting a perforated appendix. Next began frequent trips to the bathroom for a colon cleansing experience that some would pay money for in Santa Cruz. :)

On return to language school on Monday, I was anorexic and hadn't eaten anything in 36 hours but was at least hydrating. If that was not possible, one could see how you could get into trouble rapidly with such a problem. Cholera is a bacterial infection that gives a toxing to the water transport cells of the intesting preventing reabsorption of water and salt. The rapid dehydrating effect of this is the reason there are so many deaths in third world countries from this disease. Traveller's diarrhea is most commonly caused by a toxin in E. Coli and resolves within 1-2 days.
http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dbmd/diseaseinfo/travelersdiarrhea_g.htm#who

Fortunately, life has once again improved and my desire to consume nutrition has returned. Tonight we will even plan to go toa milonga for a few hours. Hopefully, some things of interest will be posted soon.